Sutton Gault Causeway and the Cradge Bank in the floods

As you know, December and January were very wet and by now both the rivers by the Ouse Washes are running very high, and the Washes themselves are almost as high as the Cradge Bank. And on 3rd February the Environment Agency river gauge on the Old Bedford at Sutton Gault was measuring a height of 4.04m.

As usual during lockdown I went down to the Gault to walk the dog and headed out on the Cradge Bank, and took some photos. The sheer volume of water is quite breathtaking.

Ouse Washes through the year

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Everything green and lush and the banks are thick with grass and flowers

1st September
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8th September
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15th September

In mid-September the Environment Agency cuts back the vegetation on the banks. And in the distance, centre and right, cows are grazing in the still green washes.

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22nd September
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29th September

The late summer has been warm and dry. The grasses are growing back on the banks and the Washes are still green.

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6th October

The previous weekend saw the arrival of Storm Alex, the first storm of winter leading to the first floods of the winter

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13th October

No further storms and the Washes are beginning to drain.

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20th October

Although the initial floods have partially drained away, the swans are beginning to arrive

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27th October
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3rd November

At the beginning of November the Environment Agency lowers the level that triggers the Earith sluice gates by 60cm. So nearly 2 feet of the River Ouse is being dumped into the Old Bedford, and hence the Washes

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10th November
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17th November
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24th November
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1st December

After little rain for a couple of weeks the Washes are draining slowly. But they will probably remain flooded until March

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8th December
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15th December
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22nd December
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29th December

After a lot of rain before and just after Christmas the Old Bedford is at it’s highest level since recent measurements began and the Washes are at full flood. The New Bedford is overtopping the Cradge Bank in places too.

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5th January 2021

Though the rain has stopped, the Washes are still at a very high level

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12th January
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19th January

A very windy day has whipped the Washes into noticeable waves. The level is still very high.

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26th January

A very calm day. The level in both rivers is dropping slightly. The previous high water mark can be seen on the bank.

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2nd February

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9th February

The New Bedford is still flooding and overtopping the Cradge Bank and the Washes are as high as ever.

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16th February

The difference a week makes. The level of the New Bedford has subsided and the Washes have dropped at least 3 feet. The ground that was under water can clearly be seen.

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23rd February

The levels are continuing to fall, in the rivers and the Washes. The high water mark can clearly be seen on both the near and the far bank.

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9th March
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16th March
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23rd March

After almost 6 months since storm Alex brought the first floods the land is stating to appear again

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30th March
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6th April
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13th April
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20th April
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27th April
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4th May 2021
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11th May 2021
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18th May 2021

Spring can never be taken for granted on the Washes. After a dry April there has been quite a bit of rain in May and the Ouse is running high enough to open the sluices in Earith. Hence the flooding again. The greenery on the banls is flourishing!

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25th May
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1st June

The water is draining and the Washes will soon be dry again

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8th June
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15th June
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29th June
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6th July

As we go into high summer the Washes are very lush and the grasses on the Cradge Bank are approaching shoulder high

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13th July
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20th July
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27th July
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3rd August

Cattle are grazing in the next field, everything is still green in the Washes. The weeds are growing ever higher on the banks

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10th August
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17th August
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24th August
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31st August

The last photo of the series. It’s been a grey month but dry, and the Washes are still lush and green.

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Book 5 – The Living Mountain

A couple of weeks ago we went into London to help my daughter and her boyfriend get some fixtures into their new flat. As Marianne was opening boxes to populate the new bookshelves she held out a slim volume, said “Dad, you have to read this book” and handed me The Living Mountain, which is a book about the Cairngorms.

Nan Shepherd was born in Aberdeen in the late 19th century,  graduated from Aberdeen university in 1915 and spent the next 41 years teaching English at what is now the Aberdeen College of Education.  She published three modernist novels between 1928 and 1933, and a book of poetry in 1934. The Living Mountain was written towards the end of the Second World War but was put away in a drawer and was not published until 1977, only four years before Shepherd’s death in 1981.

This book is extraordinary!  But it’s  rather hard to define what it is; easier to say what it isn’t. It isn’t a guidebook, nor a travelogue, and there’s very little of the Wainwright in this book. It only has one map showing the rough layout of the Cairngorns and details no trails, routes or paths.

What it is instead could be described as a prose poem, a paean to the Cairngorms, a celebration of being and place. The Guardian called it “The finest book ever written on nature and landscape in Britain”. The Canongate Books edition that Marianne gave me has an introduction by Robert MacFarlane (a name that will crop up later in the year) who made a documentary about it for BBC Scotland in 2014 – alas not currently on iPlayer or the BBC Store.

Shepherd came to realise that the truest joy of the mountains is not climbing to the highest peaks, but just to be there, as she calls it “in the mountain”.She writes about the plateau that is at the heart of the Cairngorm as well as the peaks.  She talks of views and experiences and weather – wind and rain and ice and snow and sunshine. She describes shapes and colours and sensations and tastes and smells. There is one chapter about snow and ice where three pages are taken up with describing the forms ice takes as running water freezes. I could go on….but honestly, read it yourself and find out. 

There are another 47 books to go as part of this 2017 reading project but I think that when the final reckoning is made The Living Mountain will be right at the top of the list of books that made the greatest impression on me.

Paean to the swifts

Around the end of June or early July last summer a young male swift was guided out of the nest by his mother. He fell, flapped his wings a few times and was suddenly flying. Young swifts can fly immediately and within moments he was up in the air in that darting way that swifts move, flying off on his own. For swifts, once in the air are immediately left to their own devices by their parents.

All through the high summer he flew, catching flying insects or drifting spiders for food, until one day in early August he felt that mysterious tug to leave, the call for migration whose effects we can observe but never experience and along with his peers, turned south. He flew down to the coast, then over the channel, down through France and Spain and crossed the Straits of Gibraltar. He carried on down the west coast of Africa, until past the Sahara Desert his journey ended in the tropics of southern Africa.

While we shivered under feet of snow in the coldest winter in a century our swift flew under the hot African sun, feeding in the air, delighting in the sheer joy of flight. Until, some time probably in February he felt that tug again, pulling him back to the land of his birth. Turning northwards he retraced his journey and in approximately mid May he crossed the Channel again to cry his high squealing cry in English evening sunlight.

But why do I tell you all this?

Because the most amazing thing about our swift is that from the moment he left his nest until he flew again in the following English summer he flew non-stop! For the swift is the greatest flying machine ever evolved. He eats on the wing, sleeps on the wing and unique amongst birds, mates on the wing. The frigate bird and the great albatross will glide over the oceans for days or even weeks at a time, but they always return to land to mate and to rest. But the swift will only stop if he pairs with a female and builds a nest with her, and even then the nest is built with material that he finds in the air. It is estimated that over an average lifespan of 7 years a swift can fly 2.5 million miles!

We have one of the great natural wonders of the world whirling and crying over our heads through high summer, and yet few notice, and even fewer know the glory of what they see.

The swifts have left now. I last saw a few in the evening sky on Sunday night; by now they are probably the other side of the channel on their way back to Africa. Their arrival in May each year signals for me the start of summer; and their departure in early August indicates that though the sun is still strong summer is coming to an end and before we know it we’ll be heading into winter.

So when, one evening next spring you hear a high screeling noise way over your head and you see birds with crescent shaped wings whirling through the sky, welcome the swifts back to England, marveling that they have been flying since they left last summer. And point them out to your mates and tell them of the greatest flier on the planet.